Radiant barrier insulation styrofoam1/20/2024 Note that reflective foil will conduct electricity, so workers and homeowners must avoid making contact with bare electrical wiring. Foil-faced plywood or oriented strand board sheathing is also available. When installing a foil-type barrier, it's important to allow the material to "droop" between the attachment points to make at least a 1.0 inch (2.5 cm) air space between it and the bottom of the roof. This is generally done just before the roof sheathing goes on, but can be done afterwards from inside the attic by stapling the material to the bottom of the rafters. In a new house, an installer typically drapes a rolled-foil radiant barrier foil-face down between the roof rafters to minimize dust accumulation on the reflective faces (double-faced radiant barriers are available). It's easier to incorporate radiant barriers into a new home, but you can also install them in an existing home, especially if it has an open attic. The reflective insulation trade association also offers installation tips. If you choose to do the installation yourself, carefully study and follow the manufacturer’s instructions and safety precautions and check your local building and fire codes. In cool climates, however, it's usually more cost-effective to install more thermal insulation than to add a radiant barrier.Ī radiant barrier's effectiveness depends on proper installation, so it's best to use a certified installer. The reduced heat gain may even allow for a smaller air conditioning system. Some studies show that radiant barriers can reduce cooling costs 5% to 10% when used in a warm, sunny climate. Radiant barriers are more effective in hot climates than in cool climates, especially when cooling air ducts are located in the attic. Also, the greater the temperature difference between the sides of the radiant barrier material, the greater the benefits a radiant barrier can offer. A radiant barrier reduces the radiant heat transfer from the underside of the roof to the other surfaces in the attic.Ī radiant barrier works best when it is perpendicular to the radiant energy striking it. The hot roof material then radiates its gained heat energy onto the cooler attic surfaces, including the air ducts and the attic floor. Much of this heat travels by conduction through the roofing materials to the attic side of the roof. When the sun heats a roof, it's primarily the sun's radiant energy that makes the roof hot. The radiant barrier should be installed in a manner to minimize dust accumulation on the reflective surface. Dust accumulation on the reflective surface will reduce its reflective capability. To be effective, the reflective surface must face an air space. Radiant barriers and reflective insulation systems work by reducing radiant heat gain. Most common insulation materials work by slowing conductive heat flow and - to a lesser extent - convective heat flow. Radiant heat travels in a straight line away from any surface and heats anything solid that absorbs its energy. As the liquid or gas cools, it becomes denser and falls. Heat transfer by convection occurs when a liquid or gas - air, for example - is heated, becomes less dense, and rises. Heat flows by conduction from a hotter location within a material or assembly to a colder location, like the way a spoon placed in a hot cup of coffee conducts heat through its handle to your hand. Everything fits nice and tight and works great.Heat travels from a warm area to a cool area by a combination of conduction, convection, and radiation. You have to slightly bend the panels to get them in the frames and I also removed the hinge screws as I went so I could slide the panels in the frame without tearing them apart. If you look at the last picture of the bottom right hand panel that’s installed, I fitted a piece of panel on the right side frame then I cut a piece of panel to slide into the left side frame and fit flush to the right side frame if that makes sense. It really added an insignificant amount of weight to the door and I have not had to do any adjustments to the springs or opener. It took five panels to do my 16 foot door because of the length of the panels. Depending on the shape of the door frame, on occasion I had to cut small pieces of the foam panel to slide behind the frame and then butt joint the main panel to it. I used foam compatible construction adhesive to glue the spacers in and friction fitted the large foam panels. I also would have liked to have had a thicker air gap but there’s only so much room on these uninsulated doors. I would have liked to have used thicker foam with a higher R-value for the big panels but if you provide enough air gap you actually increase the R-value of a foam board that has the reflective side on it. My spacers are 1/2” scraps I had from an other insulation project. The board gas foil on one side and a thin clear plastic facing on the other. The white is not as stiff and is easier to bend.
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